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| Antennas | |
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Antennacraft |
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Channel Master |
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Winegard |
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| Pre-Amplifiers | |
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Antennacraft |
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Channel Master |
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Winegard |
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| Distribution Amplifiers | |
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Channel Master |
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Winegard |
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| Rotators | |
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Channel Master |
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GC |
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NTE |
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Rotor Upgrade Kit |
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| Mounts | |
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Chimney, Wall & Eave Mounts |
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Tripods |
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J Poles |
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Non-penetrating roof mounts |
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Attic Mount |
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| Cabling | |
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Coaxial Cable |
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Rotor Cable |
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HDMI Cables |
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Audio/Video Cables |
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| Combiners-Joiners-Traps | |
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JoinTennas |
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Antenna Combiners |
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Signal Combiners |
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| Accessories | |
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Coaxial Splitters |
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F Connectors |
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Ground Blocks |
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Wall Plates |
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A/B Switches |
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Coax Seal |
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Wire Ties |
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Crimp Tools |
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Satellite Accessories |
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| Antenna Tower | |
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Rohn (Radian) |
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| Consumer Products | |
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Digital Receivers |
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NTE Semiconductors |
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Security Systems |
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LED Flashlights |
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AC Inverters |
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Soldering Equipment |
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Heat Sink Compound |
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AC/DC Adaptors |
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Tool Sets |
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PTS Television Modules |
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Arrow Staples |
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Chipquik SMD Removal Kit |
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Antenna Selection & Installation Guide |
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The first step in any antenna installation is to determine the distance and bearing of the transmitting stations. A good place to start is Antennaweb.org
Next, you will need to determine what type of antenna is best suited for your particular area. Most antennas are classified according to sensitivity (i.e. fringe, suburban.) These ratings are designed to indicate at what distance from a TV transmitter the antenna provides the best reception, and are based on optimum conditions over unobstructed terrain. They will help you determine how large and what type of antenna you will need to purchase.
The chart below shows antenna classifications based upon distance to transmitter (or course, factors such as height, terrain and objects such as buildings, trees, hills and mountains will affect actual range and reception.)
| Designation | VHF (mi.) | UHF (mi.) |
| Deepest Fringe | 100+ | 60+ |
| Deep Fringe | 100 | 60 |
| Fringe | 80 | 45 |
| Near Fringe | 60 | 40 |
| Far Suburban | 50 | 35 |
| Suburban | 45 | 30 |
| Far Metropolitan | 30 | 25 |
| Metropolitan | 25 | 15 |
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Antenna Types |
High Definition Compatible
High Definition stations typically broadcast on the UHF band (channels 14-83), therefore you will need an antenna specifically designed for those frequencies. We recommend the Channel Master UHF bay-style antennas 4221A or 4228A. If you prefer a yagi-style antenna, consider the 4248 Channel Master. These antennas are meant for stations broadcasting on UHF frequencies (channels 14-83.) If you will be viewing stations on the VHF band as well (channels 2-13) you should consider a broadband antenna (see below.) Check first with your local stations to determine on which band they are broadcasting hi-definition signals.
Low-Profile Antennas
If you are more in the market for a smaller, aesthetically pleasing HDTV antenna, the Channel Master Stealthtenna or the Winegard SquareShooter provides good reception characteristics along with sleek, streamlined profiles.
High Definition Broadband Antennas
If you plan on watching both UHF and VHF stations, Antennacraft , Channel Master or Winegard broadband antennas provide rugged workmanship and excellent performance in a single, convenient package.
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The color code chart |
Your antenna may be coded with a chart like the one below.
This will help you in determining which antenna is right for your area.
Visit Antennaweb for a simple, on-line antenna selection guide.
| DESCRIPTION |
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The smallest of TV antennas, they receive equally well from all directions. |
| USE | In yellow map areas where signal strength is highest and away from reflecting structures or low areas. |
| DESCRIPTION |
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Somewhat larger and slightly more powerful |
| USE | Green areas. An amplified antenna is recommended in the green area anytime a long (20 feet or more) cable run from the antenna is required, or when more than one device (TV or VCR) is to be used with an antenna. They work best away from reflecting structures or low areas. |
| DESCRIPTION |
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Bigger in size, these antennas receive more signal power. Better for greater distances from signal source and areas with low signal strength. |
| USE | When mounted at rooftop heights (30 feet or higher) outdoors, amplified antennas can be used in light green areas away from reflecting structures or low areas. |
| DESCRIPTION |
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Antennas that act like large multidirectional on channels 2-6 but on higher channels these antennas start to have useful ghost reducing effects. Picture quality is excellent when no signal reflecting structures are around. |
| USE | Suitable for far edge of light green map areas. Amplified antennas with rooftop mounting can be used in light green map area if the area is free of signal reflecting structures and is not in a low area. |
| DESCRIPTION |
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Most popular rooftop antenna because of its modest size and ghost reducing characteristics. |
| USE | If there are ghost producing reflective structures near TV receiver antenna location, this kind of antenna is best for yellow, green, light green and red map areas. Amplified antennas with rooftop mounting can be used in blue map areas. | |
| DESCRIPTION |
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Large antennas used in weak signal areas for maximum possible TV reception. |
| USE | Can be used in any map area, but requires an amplifier and roof mounting for blue, violet and pink areas. Amplifiers are not recommended in yellow areas. | |
Will I need a pre-amplifier?
In general, if the distance to the transmitting tower is roughly 25-30 miles or more, you live in difficult terrain or if you wish to put your antenna in your attic, you will most likely need a pre-amplifier. A pre-amplifier comes in two sections:
The actual amplifier, which mounts directly on the antenna mast.
The power supply, which mounts by your television set and plugs into your AC outlet.
The power supply feeds power back to the amplifier head via your existing coax cable, thus eliminating the need to run a separate power line to your antenna and insuring that only the television signal is amplified, not any induced noise or interference that may be present on the coaxial line. The AP4800 or 7775 (UHF pre-amps), AP8275 or 7777 (UHF/VHF pre-amps) are recommended for these installations.
Can I mount my antenna in my attic?
Yes, but this type of installation may impact your reception. Roofing materials (nails, shingles, boards etc.) will attenuate broadcast signals by up to 30%. Depending on location, terrain and other factors, some attic installations do work well, but for the best possible reception it is better to mount your antenna outside. If you do decide to install your antenna in your attic, we highly recommend using a pre-amplifier to offset signal loss.
What other items will I need to complete my installation?
Whether this is a new installation or you are replacing an existing antenna, you will need some or all of the following (remember, masts do not come with antennas):
Coax cable (RG-6 with weatherproof ends is preferred)
Mast (The pole that attaches your antenna to your antenna mount)
Antenna mount (Tripod, flat roof mount, chimney mount, wall mount, eave mount or tower)
Grounding block (This attaches to your coax line to reduce static interference)
Ground Wire (Attaches from your antenna mast to your ground rod for lightning protection)
Rotor wire (For antenna rotator installations)
Splitters (To connect antenna to more than one television set)
You can find these items and more listed in our accessories section.
SAFETY FIRST!!
Installation or removal of antennas near power lines is dangerous!
Never let any part of the antenna, mast or guying line touch any power line!
It is recommended you stay at least twice the length of the antenna and
mast away from all power lines! If you are unsure, please let a professional
installer do the job for you.